Te decía el nombre de la ciudad donde estaba pero tú no sabías repetirlo: Charlottesville, tan largo, con tantas consonantes. Lo intentabas y te daba la risa. Charlottesville, en el estado de Virginia, en América. Yo te contaba que era una ciudad pequeña rodeada de bosques en la que las casas estaban muy separadas entre sí y todo el mundo iba siempre en coche.
Dining in New York with Federico García Lorca
Article1 CommentBeef Consommé with Beer and Peanut Froth
RecipeCommentServes 6 as an appetizer
This is one of the many recipes that Colombia presented as the outcome of a most interesting scientific research method, called "food pairing." Flavor analysis was used to discover the foods that best combine with the different varieties of coffee that the country produces. The results provide a myriad of new possibilities for combining coffee with a number of other flavors to create new and unexpected recipes.
For the beef stock:
10.5 ounces white beef bone
1 pound beef flank, cut in 1-inch pieces
2 tablespoon vegetable oil
5 cups water
1 small onion, chopped coarsely
1/4 stalk celery, chopped coarsely
1 small carrot, chopped coarse
2 tablespoons tomato puree
1/2 tablespoon salt
Cheesecloth bag, containing:
1 sprig rosemary, about 2.5 inches
1 sprig thyme, about 2.5 inches
1 bay leaf
For clarifying stock:
3 cups liquid stock, fat removed
2 egg whites, beaten lightly
For infusing stock:
2 ½ cups clear stock
1.4 ounces Colombian coffee beans, from the Santander area
5 x 6 inch sprigs fresh tarragon
For peanut paste:
3.5 ounces white peanuts (aprox. 3/4 cup if measured peeled and uncrushed)
1 tablspoon vegetable oil
For peanut and beer foam:
2/3 cup dark beer, Guinness type
2 tablespoons peanut paste
2 egg whites
For decoration:
¼ teaspoon finely ground Colombian coffee, Santander origin
To make the stock, roast bones at 180ºC (350ºF) for 40 minutes. Save. Add a tablespoon of vegetable oil to non-stick pan, brown meat at highest temperature. Save. Add a tablespoon of vegetable oil to non-stick pan, brown vegetables. Add tomato paste and cook until liquid evaporates. Save. In a tall pot, add bones, beef, water and salt. Bring to boil, skimming the froth, and simmer uncovered for 5 hours. Add herbs in cheesecloth bag. Add vegetables and simmer for 1 additional hour. Strain the stock through a fine sieve into a bowl.
To reduce kitchen time, a pressure cooker can be used. In this case, cook meat, bones and water, under pressure, for 1 hour after correct pressure level is reached. Let pressure cooker chill until safe to open, add herbs and vegetables and cook uncovered for 1 more hour.
To clarify stock, heat the stock, and add lightly beaten egg whites. Simmer until whites curdle. Ladle stock through cheesecloth or paper sieve. Removing fat with a fat separator before this step will help you obtain a finer stock. Fat can also be removed by letting stock chill and removing solid fat gathered on top with a ladle.
To infuse stock, heat clarified stock to boiling point. Add coffee beans and tarragon. Remove from heat and allow to infuse for 10 minutes. Strain through sieve to remove beans and herbs. Strain again through cloth or paper sieve to remove any remaining solids. Taste and add more salt if necessary. At this point you should also add salt to taste.
To make the peanut paste, add oil and peanuts to pan and roast until golden, stirring continuously. Add peanuts to food processor fitted with the metal blade. Grind until a thick paste is obtained.
To make beer and peanut foam, combine all ingredients in small bowl and mix well. Strain through fine sieve or superbag. Transfer liquid mix into small siphon and screw on top tightly. Charge siphon with gas capsule.
Presentation and serving. Heat infused stock to below boiling point. Remove from heat. Fill medium pot with water to ½ of its capacity. Place siphon in pot (water should cover about ½ to 2/3’s of siphon. Heat until water is about 50ºC (122ºF). Pour warm stock into white wine glasses, about ¾ full. Shake siphon well, turn upside down and press lever to fill rest of glass with foam. Sprinkle ground coffee over foam and serve.
Original recipe created by Chef Paco Roncero of La Terraza del Casino for Café de Colombia, presented at the session “Coffee, Savory Universe” at Madrid Fusion 2013. Photo Courtesy of Café de Colombia
Canned Sardines, Dressed for Success
RecipeCommentMakes 4 portions as an appetizer
1 medium carrot, peeled and diced
1 tablespoon + 2 tablespoons water
2 x 3-ounce cans of small sardines in oil
1 ½ tablespoons sherry vinegar
¼ tablespoon ground cumin
3 tablespoons + 1 tablespoon olive oil
Grate carrot in small food processor or blender. (Use the smallest possible setting to ensure carrot does not disperse and grates finely.) Add water and continue blending to achieve a thick puree consistency. Pass puree through fine sieve to obtain juice. You will obtain approximately 50 ml of juice. Measure and save.
Remove oil from sardines. (This oil can be saved and used to prepare salad dressings).
In rinsed out food processor or blender, pour carrot juice, olive oil, vinegar and cumin. Blend well. Pour dressing into sardine cans and leave to marinate 30 minutes at room temperature, or longer if refrigerated. Save leftover dressing.
If refrigerated, remove cans from cold 15 minutes before serving. Transfer sardines and dressing from cans carefully onto plate. Add additional dressing if necessary to cover bottom of plate. Serve with teaspoons, so that each bite of fish is accompanied by a small amount of sauce.
Recipe compiled and tested by Gloria Rodríguez from the presentation: “Fish All Year: Fish Preserves” by Chef Ángel León of Aponiente at Madrid Fusion 2013. Photo by Rocío Moreno.
The Sanz System: A Look Behind the Restaurants of Héctor Sanz
ArticleCommentHéctor Sanz arrived in New York knowing no one. In his mind, this was a six-month hiatus from a soon-to-be settled life as an engineer in small-town Spain. In reality, he was about to embark on a career in the restaurant business that began with him as a bus boy in a bolero jacket and brought him to head his own burgeoning restaurant group.
On Reading Nabokov in Peru
StoryCommentNo, Lima isn’t perfect. It is often frustrating and sometimes dangerous. I’ve been pickpocketed twice here, robbed at knifepoint once, and harassed by strange men in the street too many times to count. But this is all part of its charm, because in the end Lima is always fascinating and truly glorious
The Latino List and Timothy Greenfield-Sanders
InterviewCommentThe “List” projects, from their inception have been multi-media. I direct and co-produce. I also photograph all of the subjects on my large-format view camera. The interviews, aside from being used in the film, become text for the books. The photographs find their way to the walls of museums and onto the pages of our books. True synergy.
The Culinary Compass of Junot Díaz
InterviewCommentMezcal Without the Worm
StoryCommentThe worm comes from the maguey (agave) plant and some say it adds flavor, while others ridiculously claim that it proves the mezcal is strong enough to preserve the worm, that it isn’t diluted. Many think it’s just a marketing ploy. Most of the mezcal coming into New York doesn’t have the worm, and I tell Yira that I’ll miss it.
Meet the Meat at Churrascaria Tribeca
ArticleCommentWhat sealed the deal for me was an invitation to see the actual grill, and the different cuts of meat rotating slowly in the heat while the master cook gave orders in the same way a conductor would lead a musical ensemble. Because cuisine is music: that mysterious form of time spent in the senses and in feeling.
A Taste of Brazil in New York
ArticleCommentEveryone needs to spend some time in Brazil at some point in their life in order to put themselves in touch with sheer joy of being alive. But for those of us in New York who are impatient and can’t quite manage to pack up and go tomorrow, there are at least some options for music, dance, and food that can keep us going until the opportunity arrives.
Carioca Soul: The Boteco Culture
ArticleCommentA Sight Over Santa Teresa, Rio de Janeiro
Article1 CommentSanta Teresa, with its calm forest and clean water, was close enough to downtown to be the ideal place for those who could pay to live there and build huge and beautiful mansions. Many of those fabulous houses are still standing, recalling the times of Brazilian’s belle époque and making the walk through the historical streets a special treat
Rio!
StoryCommentAs night fell, we wandered to the far end of the beach, climbing up to sit on a large rock formation that offered an exquisite view of the city and many of the local landmarks. To our left the lights of the Vidigal—located at the base of the Dois Irmaos —shimmered like jewels as a thin crescent moon hung delicately in the evening sky.
Favela Kids
Postcard1 CommentThe Brazilian Connection
ArticleCommentPerhaps it’s the caipirinhas or the Portuguese wine, but everyone is cheerful when it’s time to gather around the table for a feast that is sure to please both hearts and bellies. São Paolo might be thousands of miles away, but here, in this New York home, surrounded by the stories, the samba, the surf boards, and the tastiest cozido ever, you can’t really tell.
Cozido à Brasileira by Carlos Varella
RecipeCommentServes 8.
1 1/2 pounds pork ribs
4 pieces of chicken, thighs or wings
1/2 pound beef loin
1 pound pumpkin, cut in 2-inch pieces
2 sweet potatoes, cut in 2-inch pieces
2 pounds of yuca, cut in 2-inch pieces
1 large carrot, cut in 2-inch pieces
1 ear of corn, cut in 4 pieces
1 cabbage
1 pork sausage
1 smoked sausage or blood sausage
1/4 pound bacon
2 plantains
Salt to taste
The night before preparing, marinate pork ribs, chicken and beef loin in lime juice, crushed garlic, salt, and pepper.
The next day, drizzle olive oil in a large pot and start browning the pork ribs, beef loin, and chicken. Add the pumpkin, sweet potatoes, yuca, carrots, sausages, bacon, along with 2 cups of water. Cover pot and let ingredients cook and flavors blend for about 90 minutes. Stir occasionally and add water if pot seems too dry. Take sausage out, cut into 3 inch pieces and place back in the pot. Add the corn and cabbage leaves, cover and let cook for 20 more minutes. Add salt and pepper to taste.
While the cozido is cooking, cut ends from plantains and slit lengthwise to allow steam to penetrate. Place in steamer basket and cook for about 15 minutes.
For the pirão:
1 cup manioc flour
Pan juices from the cozido
Place the manioc flour in a bowl and pour hot juices from the cozido, whisking to incorporate the ingredients until you form a paste. Arrange the cozido over a platter garnished with cooked cabbage leaves and serve with rice, pirão, and plantains.
View article: The Brazilian Connection.
Sundays in Ipanema, Rio de Janeiro
PostcardCommentThere is always an array of entertainment going on at the foot of the rock—coco water for sale, acrobats on the beach, musicians playing a little tune, surfers running in and out of the water, bodies seeking attention, bikinis for sale, kissing—lots of kissing, kids excited to conquer the rock, tourists with all sorts of cameras, girls bouncing soccer balls high off of their knees and lifeguards making sure no one got in trouble.