Years of ineptitude when it came to producing the perfect steak and, even worse, years of searching for it elsewhere only to find disappointing imitations, had left me with a deeply engraved perplexity over meat.
Gloria Rodríguez
Jesús Sánchez & El Cenador de Amós
InterviewCommentCustomers have to come all the way here. You need to present something that people will drive out for. When we opened we offered a more conservative cuisine, quite traditional and reminiscent of Navarra, where I come from. In 1995 we made a turn into a more personal cuisine, which evolved into the signature cuisine that we are now known for.
Beef Consommé with Beer and Peanut Froth
RecipeCommentServes 6 as an appetizer
This is one of the many recipes that Colombia presented as the outcome of a most interesting scientific research method, called "food pairing." Flavor analysis was used to discover the foods that best combine with the different varieties of coffee that the country produces. The results provide a myriad of new possibilities for combining coffee with a number of other flavors to create new and unexpected recipes.
For the beef stock:
10.5 ounces white beef bone
1 pound beef flank, cut in 1-inch pieces
2 tablespoon vegetable oil
5 cups water
1 small onion, chopped coarsely
1/4 stalk celery, chopped coarsely
1 small carrot, chopped coarse
2 tablespoons tomato puree
1/2 tablespoon salt
Cheesecloth bag, containing:
1 sprig rosemary, about 2.5 inches
1 sprig thyme, about 2.5 inches
1 bay leaf
For clarifying stock:
3 cups liquid stock, fat removed
2 egg whites, beaten lightly
For infusing stock:
2 ½ cups clear stock
1.4 ounces Colombian coffee beans, from the Santander area
5 x 6 inch sprigs fresh tarragon
For peanut paste:
3.5 ounces white peanuts (aprox. 3/4 cup if measured peeled and uncrushed)
1 tablspoon vegetable oil
For peanut and beer foam:
2/3 cup dark beer, Guinness type
2 tablespoons peanut paste
2 egg whites
For decoration:
¼ teaspoon finely ground Colombian coffee, Santander origin
To make the stock, roast bones at 180ºC (350ºF) for 40 minutes. Save. Add a tablespoon of vegetable oil to non-stick pan, brown meat at highest temperature. Save. Add a tablespoon of vegetable oil to non-stick pan, brown vegetables. Add tomato paste and cook until liquid evaporates. Save. In a tall pot, add bones, beef, water and salt. Bring to boil, skimming the froth, and simmer uncovered for 5 hours. Add herbs in cheesecloth bag. Add vegetables and simmer for 1 additional hour. Strain the stock through a fine sieve into a bowl.
To reduce kitchen time, a pressure cooker can be used. In this case, cook meat, bones and water, under pressure, for 1 hour after correct pressure level is reached. Let pressure cooker chill until safe to open, add herbs and vegetables and cook uncovered for 1 more hour.
To clarify stock, heat the stock, and add lightly beaten egg whites. Simmer until whites curdle. Ladle stock through cheesecloth or paper sieve. Removing fat with a fat separator before this step will help you obtain a finer stock. Fat can also be removed by letting stock chill and removing solid fat gathered on top with a ladle.
To infuse stock, heat clarified stock to boiling point. Add coffee beans and tarragon. Remove from heat and allow to infuse for 10 minutes. Strain through sieve to remove beans and herbs. Strain again through cloth or paper sieve to remove any remaining solids. Taste and add more salt if necessary. At this point you should also add salt to taste.
To make the peanut paste, add oil and peanuts to pan and roast until golden, stirring continuously. Add peanuts to food processor fitted with the metal blade. Grind until a thick paste is obtained.
To make beer and peanut foam, combine all ingredients in small bowl and mix well. Strain through fine sieve or superbag. Transfer liquid mix into small siphon and screw on top tightly. Charge siphon with gas capsule.
Presentation and serving. Heat infused stock to below boiling point. Remove from heat. Fill medium pot with water to ½ of its capacity. Place siphon in pot (water should cover about ½ to 2/3’s of siphon. Heat until water is about 50ºC (122ºF). Pour warm stock into white wine glasses, about ¾ full. Shake siphon well, turn upside down and press lever to fill rest of glass with foam. Sprinkle ground coffee over foam and serve.
Original recipe created by Chef Paco Roncero of La Terraza del Casino for Café de Colombia, presented at the session “Coffee, Savory Universe” at Madrid Fusion 2013. Photo Courtesy of Café de Colombia
Canned Sardines, Dressed for Success
RecipeCommentMakes 4 portions as an appetizer
1 medium carrot, peeled and diced
1 tablespoon + 2 tablespoons water
2 x 3-ounce cans of small sardines in oil
1 ½ tablespoons sherry vinegar
¼ tablespoon ground cumin
3 tablespoons + 1 tablespoon olive oil
Grate carrot in small food processor or blender. (Use the smallest possible setting to ensure carrot does not disperse and grates finely.) Add water and continue blending to achieve a thick puree consistency. Pass puree through fine sieve to obtain juice. You will obtain approximately 50 ml of juice. Measure and save.
Remove oil from sardines. (This oil can be saved and used to prepare salad dressings).
In rinsed out food processor or blender, pour carrot juice, olive oil, vinegar and cumin. Blend well. Pour dressing into sardine cans and leave to marinate 30 minutes at room temperature, or longer if refrigerated. Save leftover dressing.
If refrigerated, remove cans from cold 15 minutes before serving. Transfer sardines and dressing from cans carefully onto plate. Add additional dressing if necessary to cover bottom of plate. Serve with teaspoons, so that each bite of fish is accompanied by a small amount of sauce.
Recipe compiled and tested by Gloria Rodríguez from the presentation: “Fish All Year: Fish Preserves” by Chef Ángel León of Aponiente at Madrid Fusion 2013. Photo by Rocío Moreno.